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Staying in the “Red Light” District of Amsterdam

December 29, 2014 by Sonia Marsh 5 Comments

old nickel photo
Old Nickel Hotel, Red Light district, Amsterdam. Click on photo.

 

The youth hostel I booked for my 20-year-old son, Jordan, and myself, is located in the heart of the red light district of Amsterdam.

What an experience walking through the streets at midnight, and seeing beautiful young women in minuscule bikinis, standing behind glass windows offering their services.

As a mother, I couldn’t help but think:

  • How sad for young women to sell their bodies
  • How sad for the mothers of these young women
  • I hope they’re warm behind these windows. It’s freezing outside

It reeks of weed everywhere, especially in our hostel. The narrow, winding staircase, proved to be a major workout with my 50- pound suitcase, and a backpack. I asked for a quiet room, and was allocated one on the 3rd floor, with a shared toilet and shower.

It wasn’t quiet all night. I guess, I’m roughing it, as far as a middle-aged, western woman, however, I keep reminding myself how lucky I am to have a twin bed and central heating.

100_2831

We checked in the “Old Nickel” youth hostel at 4 p.m., after our 3-hour train ride from Paris to Amsterdam, on the comfortable, Thalys train from, Gare du Nord, Paris.

Amsterdam is quite the booming city, and our ten-minute walk from Central Station to the hostel–with suitcases and backpacks–proved to be quite a “gutsy” adventure, especially timing the crossing of the streets, attempting to avoid trams, bicyclists, cars, and people.

I should have read the “Lonely Planet” description of the hostel, before booking it.

“Location, location: the Nickel will appeal to everyone looking for a simple place to crash after a red-light romp. Go up (and up and up) the steep stairs from the historic, well-stocked pub, and you’ll find clean no-nonsense rooms, all bathrooms shared. Rates include a big cooked breakfast and drop sharply during the week.”

Instead, I focused on the fact that the hostel is, supposedly, only a 3-minute walk from the Central Station of Amsterdam. I guess if you have no luggage, and know where you’re going, you can jog in 3-minutes.

One of the reasons I picked Amsterdam, was to meet my friend, Ubit. I have not seen Ubit since 1974 when we were at boarding school together in the UK.

Sonia and Ubit in Amsterdam
Sonia and Ubit in Amsterdam

Ubit hasn’t changed, and we reconnected instantly. She said a couple of things that made me happy, as I had forgotten what I was like in boarding school.

“Sonia, you were always the one who asked the teacher questions. None of us had the courage to ask the strict teachers what you asked.”

I took that as a compliment, and it reinforced the concept of being “gutsy,” even when I was seventeen.

Ubit took us to her friends who have a bike shop called, Starbikes rental. Dan from Australia, and his partner, Linda, from Holland, specialize in bike rentals, and even offer a way for people in wheelchairs to ride a bike.

Bike made for a wheelchair
Dan demonstrating an engine to hold on from a wheelchair
WWII Swiss Army Bike
Rental Bikes

We decided to take a bike rental tour of Amsterdam. I think this may be a fabulous way to see the city, as long as I follow the Dutch bike rules. At least we’re not in the U.K. where they ride on the left side of the street.

More news later….

“Joyeaux Noel” from France and “God Jul” from Copenhagen

December 25, 2014 by Sonia Marsh Leave a Comment

Copenhagen Airport Christmas Tree
Copenhagen Christmas Tree

“Joyeaux Noel,” or Merry Christmas to all my friends from Paris.

We arrived in Paris yesterday from Copenhagen. My son, Jordan, was surprised that he didn’t need to show his passport or stop for customs in Paris. We walked straight through and avoided those who guided us towards their taxi service. I wasn’t sure if they were legitimate taxi drivers, so we followed the arrow to “Taxis,” where several cars were waiting.

Everything is closed on Christmas Day, except for the bakers. We bought several loaves of fresh bread this morning for our French Christmas dinner tonight.

Dad and Jill offered champagne and canapes (small appetizers) to celebrate our arrival in Paris.

Appetizers

I’m getting used to youth hostels, however something strange happened in Copenhagen. I booked a double room with a shower. The bathroom had a baseball-cap sized sink, and I didn’t realize the shower was attached to the ceiling. You were supposed to turn on the faucet and pull on the pop-up drain stopper to make the water spray from the shower above us. This meant that the entire bathroom became the shower.

Copenhagen Youth hostel room
Copenhagen Youth hostel room
front part of the Copenhagen Youth Hostel
front part of the Copenhagen Youth Hostel

Our Copenhagen Downtown Youth Hostel was located in the perfect place to walk on Stroget, the famous pedestrian street in Copenhagen, Tivoli, and the little Mermaid.

Tivoli at night
Sonia enjoying Danish wienerbrod (Danish pastry)
Viking ship at Copenhagen airport
My friend Lilian at Tivoli
The Little Memaid
Lilian on Stroget (The pedestriaan street in Copenhagen)
Jordan in front of the Little Mermaid
A fish spa, where tiny fish clean your feet
Nyhavn
Oustide Tivoli
Bus tour of Copenhagen
Bust tour of Copenhagen

I hope you have a lovely Christmas and holiday with your family and friends.

Christmas Time in London, Suffolk and Copenhagen

December 22, 2014 by Sonia Marsh 6 Comments

100_2714
Santa and his elf at Heathrow Airport, London

After a couple of nights in our first youth hostel, close to Paddington Station in London, Jordan and I took the train from Liverpool Street station to Stowmarket in Suffolk.

The train was full of commuters heading back to the countryside after a days work in London. My friend, Sallyann, picked us up at the train station, and drove us to her charming, countryside farm house where they raise chickens and grow their own vegetables.

We visited the seaside resort of Southwold, on the Suffolk Heritage coast. Although quite cold in December, with one “gutsy” surfer trying to catch waves in the North Sea, Southwold is booming with tourists in the summer.

Sallyann and Sonia on the beach
Southwold
The Beach
Jordan, Sallyann and Louis
Downtown Southwold

After catching up with Sallyann, and a fun evening at a local village pub, we caught the National Express bus from Ipswich to Heathrow airport. It took three hours on a comfortable bus, then we headed to Terminal 2 for our SAS flight to Copenhagen.

Heathrow airport has personality. It’s one of my favorite airports, and as soon as we passed security, we were welcomed by Santa and his elf. I could not resist a photo opportunity with Santa.
Families traveling to Copenhagen for the holidays, or ending their vacation in London, brought a festive atmosphere to the flight.

Jordan and I showed our American passports and received a warm and welcoming smile from the customs agent. The woman before us, dressed in a burka, was told to step aside; she did not have a visa to enter Denmark.

My Danish friend, Lilian, and her husband, met us at the airport and drove us to our second youth hostel in downtown Copenhagen called CPH Downtown.

Lilian and I are best friends. We met at age 4, and have stayed in touch since then.
Lilian and I are best friends. We met at age 4, and have stayed in touch since then.

 

Today is cold and gray, but we are off to do some sight-seeing. More from Tivoli and Copenhagen, on Thursday’s post.

Christmas Holiday Season is Magical in London

December 18, 2014 by Sonia Marsh 4 Comments

Christmas lights Oxford Street
Christmas lights Oxford Street

I am spending the Christmas holidays in Europe with my 20-year-old son, Jordan.

In order to make this trip more youth friendly for Jordan, I decided to book youth hostels for our stay. This was my first experience in a youth hostel, and although the bed was comfortable, I felt like I had to “obey the house rules,” like breakfast ends at 10 a.m. I showed up at 9:59 for a cup of coffee, and was told, “It’s too late. Sorry.”

Little did I know how cramped the rooms would be, despite being “upgraded” to a larger room.

Private room at the youth hostel called Equity House.
Private room at the youth hostel called Equity House.

 

Our desk.
Our desk.

I had forgotten how “magical” the Christmas season can be in Europe. California has beautiful weather, but I am bombarded with the commercial side of Christmas in the U.S.

What I miss is the Christmas spirit I feel in London. For example the warm, cosy pubs, where friends gather to chat and have a drink. The tasteful Christmas decorations on Oxford Street and Picadilly Circus. The shops, and the Christmas carolers and live music on the streets.

Christmas Bagpiper
Christmas Bagpiper

 

Jordan in London
Jordan in London

Next stop is Stowmarket, Suffolk where I’m staying with Sallyann, my friend from boarding school days.

What Mom Taught Me About Life

December 15, 2014 by Sonia Marsh 12 Comments

 

Lola De Maci

 

“Simple Splendor”

“My Gutsy Story®”- Lola  Di Giulio  De Maci

 

I could always tell it was pie-baking day when I came home from school. The container of cinnamon was sitting on the kitchen counter alongside the sugar bowl. Mom was getting ready to make apple pie. That meant cinnamon rolls made from leftover pie dough. The sweet smell of cinnamon tickled my nose. I could hardly wait.

The recipe called for flour, shortening, salt, plus five spoonfuls of cold water. “You have to use cold water,” Mom would insist. “That’s the secret to making the best crust.” She took out her cookbook.

“Here’s the recipe,” she said, her eyes twinkling. “Cinnamon Pinwheels.” She handed me the cookbook as if she were presenting me with the secret as to what makes the Golden Gate Bridge golden. I accepted the gift, opening the book with reverential awe.

But it wasn’t a “real” recipe at all – just a pinch of this and a handful of that.

“Was this your mother’s recipe?” I asked Mom. The pages were worn with splotches of sugar and flour.

“Yes,” Mom nodded. “And my mother got it from her mother. Your grandmother, Ruth, baked just about every day: pies, cakes, cookies. But mostly bread. There was always a fresh loaf of bread on the table. ‘The staff of life,’ she would say.”

At that moment I knew I wanted to be just like my mom and grandma. When I grew up, I wanted to feed my family “the staff of life.” I was determined to learn that magic formula that my mother, grandmother and great-grandmother had perfected.

With the rolls piping hot from the oven, Mom would pour herself a cup of coffee, and I would get myself a glass of milk. Sitting side by side on the sofa, we celebrated the swirly treat. Just my mom and me. This was our special time. Bite by bite, I would make my way through the cinnamon roll to the “luscious lump” of dough, sugar, and cinnamon in the center – my favorite part.

“Can you make these pinwheels again tomorrow?” I would ask Mom. I couldn’t wait for the next pie-baking day.

And then one day Mom couldn’t remember some of the ingredients that went into making the rolls. I didn’t know a lot about Alzheimer’s, but I did know that I wanted to help her remember – anything. Mom was now living in a retirement home, and I would visit her for hours. Sometimes we talked. Sometimes we didn’t. It wasn’t easy watching my mother disappear into another world. And yet, it was an honor to sit with her…and dream.

Store-bought cinnamon rolls sat silently on the kitchen counter in her new home, waiting to be opened. I would take out two pretty plates from the cupboard and place a cinnamon roll on each. Then I would grab her big, caramel-colored mug with the word “Mom” etched on it in bold, curvy letters, fill it with coffee, and hand it to her. The mug with the brightly-colored Christmas tree painted on it was for me. No matter what time of the year it was, I loved the feeling of Christmas in my hands. It seemed to offer so much promise.

“Mom, I want you to make cinnamon pinwheels for me,” I would say kiddingly, taking her hand. “Just the way you used to make them. I loved them more than anything in the world.” And she would laugh. And I would laugh. I knew this was an impossible request – and maybe she did too – but that wasn’t the point. Maybe I wanted to remember for the both of us.

Mom’s been gone for eight Septembers now. She lived to be ninety-three years old. I think about Mom’s final days and how her illness stole her away from us. There were times I cried because I wanted my mother back. And then I would quickly replace those unimaginable thoughts with the many good times we had together. Shared memories. Mom could take something as ordinary and unpretentious as a cinnamon roll and celebrate it.

Thanks to my mom I have learned to see and celebrate the simple, unbridled joys of everyday living. A noisy squawk jay on my patio. A card from a friend in my mailbox. A cinnamon roll on a pretty plate. I have come to know and appreciate the beauty and splendor the world has to offer me.

And I am grateful. Very grateful.

 

Lola Di Giulio De Maci is a retired teacher whose stories appear in several editions of Chicken Soup for the Soul, Ultimate Series, Tending Your Inner Garden, Reminisce, various newspapers including the Los Angeles Times, and children’s books and magazines. She enjoys crossword puzzles, journaling, handwritten notes/letters, her children, and new beginnings. Lola earned a Master of Arts in education and English and continues writing from her loft overlooking the San Bernardino Mountains. Contact her at: LDeMaci@aol.com.

SONIA MARSH SAYS: Lola, what a beautiful story of love and gratitude for the small things in life that bring us pleasure. Something to remember during this busy holiday season.


 

View of Paris from L'Arc de Triomphe

I am leaving for London, Copenhagen, Paris and Amsterdam for the holidays. I shall post photos and news about my trip, so I hope you enjoy following me on my trip.

In the meantime, please submit your own  “My Gutsy Story®” for publication in the 2015 Anthology.

  Click HERE for GUIDELINES

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