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You are here: Home / Archives for safari.

I’m Going Back to Africa

April 10, 2017 by Sonia Marsh 13 Comments

 

Yes, I’m going back to Africa in May, however, this time, I’m traveling as an independent affiliate of Holden Safaris; a boutique and exclusive safari operator located in Newport Beach, California.

Our first stop is at the INDABA conference, one of the largest tourism marketing events held in Durban, South Africa. After INDABA, our team is driving along a special tour of the KwaZulu Natal province of South Africa. (The route is shown on the map below. Notice how close we are to Lesotho, where I served as a Peace Corps volunteer.)

 

Our route by car in KwaZulu Natal province.

Have you read The Elephant Whisperer, by Lawrence Anthony?

Anthony rescued and rehabilitated formerly violent, rogue elephants, destined to be shot. When Anthony passed away on March 2nd, 2012, the elephants sensed his death and loitered around his rural compound. In 2013 and 2014, the elephants returned on the exact same day at the same time. It seems incredible how these elephants knew what had happened.

Holden Safaris has arranged for us to visit Anthony’s lodge: Thula Thula Private Game Reserve, in KwaZulu Natal, which is now run by his French widow, Francoise Malby-Anthony. I’m excited to meet and speak French to Francoise and learn more about the rhino rehab center on the Thula Thula Private Game Reserve . This rhino center was built and run by the Lawrence Anthony Earth Organization. If you watch her video below, you’ll discover how her veterinarian injects rhino horns with poison and dyes to stop poachers from killing the rhinos. There is a myth that the rhino horn is an aphrodisiac and can cure certain diseases in countries such as Vietnam, Thailand and China, where one kilo of rhino horn powder fetches $40,000. The truth is that rhino horns are made of  the protein, keratin, which is the same as our finger nails, and has no medicinal value.

Francoise Malby-Anthony raises money to save the rhinos through the “Conservation Fund for the Protection and Survival of Our endangered Wildlife.”

 

Our next stop on the map is the Thanda Safari Private Game Reserve, which is described as:

“More than a luxury lodge, more than a dream safari destination, more than an African escape… Thanda Safari offers an authentically South African wildlife experience, matched with sincere commitment to the Zulu culture and passionate conservation of the environment. “

On the following day, we head towards the Manyoni Private Game Reserve, one of the largest privately owned reserves in Kwazulu-Natal.

Rhino River Lodge-Click on photo to go to website

“This 23,000 hectare reserve is the product of 17 dedicated landowners who dropped their fences in 2004 to create one protected area for our wildlife.  The long term vision of the MPGR is to increase the conservation footprint and to re-introduce species that historically occurred in the area.”

We then continue to The White Elephant Pongola Reserve luxury tented accommodation; our next stop.

White Elephant Lodge, reception and library area-click on photo to go to website.

“Eight luxurious Safari tents, each with indulgent bathroom, out door shower, private verandah and personal bar provide a secluded retreat in an unspoilt savannah bushveld teeming with game and bird life.”

A historical stop at the Fugitive’s Drift Lodge

Fugitives lodge accommodation
Fugitives’ Drift Tours-Click on photo to go to website.

“The Zulu War of 1879 is famous throughout the English-speaking world for the great battles of Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift. The spectacular Fugitives’ Drift property, a 5000 acre Natural Heritage Site, overlooks both Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift, and includes the site where Lieutenants Melvill and Coghill lost their lives attempting to save the Queen’s Colour of their regiment.”

And our last stop is at the Three Trees at Spioenkop on the Northern Drakensburg.

These wonderful children remind me of the children at my school in Lesotho.

The hosts, Simon and Cheryl Blackburn (ex Singita Private Game Reserve and ex Kwando Safari Experience) are both experienced safari & mountain guides, South African-born, they have spent their time together exploring remote parts of Africa, and they believe in:

“Fair Trade Tourism (FTT) is a non-profit organisation that promotes responsible tourism in southern Africa and beyond.  The aim of FTT is to make tourism more sustainable by ensuring that the people who contribute their land, resources, labour and knowledge to tourism are the ones who reap the benefits.”

I look forward to sharing my experiences with you in May when I return to South Africa. If you feel like learning more about Safaris or actually going on a Safari after reading my blog posts, contact me (sonia@soniamarsh.com) and I’ll put you in touch with Jim Holden, President of Holden Safaris. Jim was born in Zambia, and is an expert on Africa. He has been interviewed on Africa with AAA Travel and Peter Greenberg, the CBS News Travel Editor.

I hope you enjoy my next “Gutsy Adventure” in life, and that you might want to experience your own African Safari one day. Feel free to share my post with anyone you know who might be interested in reading about this amazing adventure I’m about to embark on.

 

Follow your dreams and find yourself

August 4, 2011 by Sonia Marsh

A guest post by Melissa Adams.

I met Melissa Adams at the Southern California Writers Association and knew I had to interview this Gutsy Lady. She’s doing what many of us hope to do: following her dreams. If you’ve never heard of a cycling Safari, you’re in for a treat.

 

Getting Lost to Find Yourself

 

You traded Southern California for Amsterdam. Why?
I grew up in L.A., earned a degree in English from UCLA and became a professional travel writer right out of college. I married, moved to Newport Beach and pursued a career as a corporate communicator, newspaper columnist, advertising copywriter and freelance journalist. While raising two children, my husband and I traveled frequently. But the rift in our values grew with the years. I wanted fun, risk and adventure. He was content pursuing a materialistic American dream.

 

Koninginendag 2008

Our 1999 divorce ended a 23-year marriage that lasted 22 years too long. After a lifetime in California, I felt bored, empty and restless as a mid-life single in an upscale beach town—land of eternal sun and sometimes eternal sadness. Glorious Newport Beach had become a cultural vacuum for me; I’d lost my sense of childlike wonder and was plodding along on auto-pilot.

 

What was the catalyst for change?
In 2007, I took a trip that changed my life. After a week of cycling on the Italian Adriatic with my bike club, I visited my son studying in Florence, then flew to Amsterdam. The minute I landed in Holland’s laid-back capital, I had an epiphany: I was living in a three-bedroom home in a town I’d become jaded about with my cat! My parents were gone, my kids had flown the coop. My possessions owned me, rather than the other way around. Starved for new experiences, I needed a change and was prepared to make one. “I’m moving to Amsterdam,” I announced. And so began My ‘Dam Affair.

 

Is that the title of a book you’re  writing?

It’s an unpublished memoir about my 2008 European adventure. It will be rewritten into My ‘Dam Betrayal, An Expat’s Tale of Scents and Sensibility, a true story about friendship, betrayal and my 2010 entanglement with a Dutch aroma jockey, Dr. Stinky and his Ministry of Nonsense. Stay tuned!

Why Holland?
Since 2007, I’ve been intoxicated by The Netherlands’ beauty, culture, history and quirky residents. Even the weather fascinates me, as I’ve never lived with seasons before. Here, I feel authentic in a way I never did in California. I’m entranced by A’dam’s bohemian vibe, Old World charm and non-snooty attitude toward alternative lifestyles. Dutchies are direct, casual and open-minded, with an egalitarian outlook that eschews authority and welcomes debate. Which makes for interesting discussions. Everyone under 50 speaks English, but you hear many languages on the grachts and straats—evidence of a multicultural population and A’dam’s draw as a world-class tourist destination.

My new hometown is a village where I’m not anonymous as I was back home. Local merchants know me. I meet friends on the street. It’s easy to get around via foot, bike and public transport, so no need for a car. A’dam is also a good base for foreign travel; a 20-minute bus ride gets me to Schipol, gateway to the world. But the best thing about the town is its connectedness. In all my travels, I’ve never found another city where it’s perfectly normal to chat up perfect strangers.

 

I’d like to know about your cycling.

Touring South Africa's Cape Peninsula with Doug Lofland & Beyond Boundaries Travel

 

I’ve been an avid recreational cyclist and member of the Bicycle Club of Irvine since 1994. The group offers something for everyone, from casual weekend riders to elite athletes. Cycling dovetailed with my freelance writing; I’ve ridden and written about bike-barge tours in Italy, Holland, Turkey and the Greek Islands and Egypt.

 

In May 2011, Beyond Boundaries Travel invited me to scout two South Africa cycling itineraries on the Western Cape and “glamping” (luxury camping) on The Savannah Game Preserve near Johannesburg. Outside stunning Hout Bay, we sang with an African gospel choir, climbed Chapman’s Peak Drive (one of the most spectacular coastal stretches in the world) and visited Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, Constantia Valley Winelands and Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years. We pedaled mountain bikes through tunnels hewn of sheer rock, past foraging baboons and a Jackass (African) Penguin colony at Boulders Beach.

 

Our adventure continued on the Savannah Game Preserve, a 2,500-acre spread on the Vaal River where more than 25 mammal species roam freely. In luxury tents with electricity and full baths, we roughed it like royalty overlooking the watering hole of rhinos, kudus, buffaloes, zebras, jackals, elands, nyalas and duikers.

 

"Glamping" on the Savannah Game Preserve

Here we journeyed “into Africa” with Earth’s fastest endangered cat. Established in 2001 to breed and reintroduce cheetahs to the wild, Savannah Cheetah Foundation is a nonprofit organization dedicated to protecting Africa’s indigenous wildlife and ecosystems.

 

Beyond game drives and relaxed meals on the preserve, we rode through Tumahole Township, stark contrast to  mansions perched on cliffs with to-die-for sea views in Clifton and Camps Bay. We bid our hosts and fellow travelers farewell at a South African braai  (BBQ) and roaring bonfire that illuminated  Zulu dancers.

 

Who’s a good candidate for a cycling safari?

Like people, bike-barge tours and cycling safaris come in all shapes and sizes. There are tours in flat countries like Holland and hilly ones like Greece and Italy, where most monuments are on hill summits. Options include guided, self-guided, themed, family and special interest tours. Many are available through Bike Tours Direct and Beyond Boundaries Travel.

 

Riding with the Rhinos. Savannah Game Preserve

Anyone with moderate fitness and desire for immersion in a foreign culture will enjoy cycle-touring. On two wheels you see, smell, hear, taste and experience more than you do in a bus or car in an up-close-and-personal way. Plus, you enjoy the exhilaration of riding a vehicle associated with childhood freedom through exotic destinations.

 

Do you consider yourself a risk-taker? If so, why?

Zulu dancers at our braai (BBQ)

I consider myself someone who lives life to the fullest, leaving no space for regrets. I re-invented myself after a mid-life divorce with a move that shocked, surprised and puzzled people. For me, the alternative was emotional suicide. I never bloomed where I was planted. But I’ve bloomed on the flip side, in the final quarter of my life. Every day I wake up in Amsterdam is a gift. My only regret is not having 48 hours a day to relish each one.

 

***

Melissa Adams is a freelance travel writer based in Amsterdam, NL. She welcomes questions about cycle touring and adventure travel at melissa@wordgeisha.com.

Learn more at www.wordgeisha.com and www.wordgeisha.blogspot.com.

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